Step into an old Chicago that doesn’t much exist anymore. Even this joint’s updated a bit; they let women eat here now after all. But that’s about it. The reasonably priced food, a decent and extensive offering of out-of-fashion German classics, is not the attraction for most. Instead it’s the sprawling space of stained glass and wood, the speedy waitstaff with a formal demeanor, and the steins of Berghoff beer. Of course, the carving station sandwiches in the bar at lunchtime ain’t half-bad either.
17 West Adams (312)427-3170
Best of Chicago 2002